Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to discover these tales and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
